Sunday, September 30, 2018

Siberia 2018 - Day 6. Reaching Lake Baikal


As it turns out I was not ready, but I will tell you about that later.

Breakfast started a bit before 7 am, at Madam Galina’s, where she managed to accommodate all 11 of us around her small kitchen table. It was a symphony of delicious Russian foods, including the ever-present blinis, which can be filled with home-made marmalade (rhubarb, cherry, or strawberry in our case), or with slices of cucumber and tomatoes covered with sour cream. There were also hard-boiled eggs and any number of baked goods; I had my eye on one of the latter, and as soon as it seemed decent I asked Christine to pass me a piece (we were tight elbow-to-elbow, so the only way to get what you wanted was for it to pass from hand to hand to your plate). I was surprised when bit into what I supposed to be an apple cobbler, only to find out that it was a rice and fish cake. It was pretty yummy, although not what most people would think about as breakfast food (none of my companions gathered the courage to try it!).

Afterward we hurried to the train station, only to have to wait over an hour for our train. We were headed for the southwest end of the lake, which resembles a giant banana (“giant” may be a bit of an understatement, for if you were to superimpose it on a map of Germany it would span the whole country). It turns out that there were many folks waiting for the same train, a good third of whom had backpacks and tents, and they were no doubt intent on enjoying the last days of summer in the great outdoors. I particularly noticed a goodly amount of senior citizens, wearing backpacks that must date back to the time of the Revolution.

The first third of the trip crossed flat valleys with extensive industry in the background, and hundreds of dachas or tiny houses in the foreground. Russians (as well as many Europeans) are crazy about their summer gardens, where they raise all sorts of fruit and vegetables, and like nothing more than spending the summer days at their dachas, living the simple life of a craft agriculture.

Eventually we took to the mountains, and the landscape was replaced first by rolling hills and later by proper mountains, covered by an endless forest of aspens and pine trees. And then it was time to get down, right in the middle of nowhere! Lara’s master plan had us walking the last few kilometers to the lake shore, down a pretty steep valley. This is when things started to get rough. I believed I had packed only the absolutely necessary for my Latin America trip, and I had left the few souvenirs I had collected in Monclova, with my parents, but I still ended with my big and small backpacks (Ok, so the computer, the instant coffee, the sugar, and the bottle of whiskey cannot be called absolute necessities, but a man needs his basic creature comforts). Normally I would carry my small backpack in the front, an arrangement that is good for a few hundreds of meters, but trying to go down a steep slope without being able to see where I was putting my feet turned out to be quite dangerous, so I piled the small backpack on top of the big one and managed to get down the slope. The stress on my shoulders turned out to be too much, however, so once in the flats I went back to the older arrangement, and in an hour or so was rewarded with my first view of Lake Baikal. It was beautiful, but I was somewhat surprised that the lake seemed too narrow. I would think maybe 10-20 km wide.

We had our lunch facing the lake, and everybody was in good spirits, waiting for the local train to go by. Then started the via crucis. We were going to hike 10 km along the tracks! Ay Dios Mío! It was pretty miserable. The path on the side of the tracks was made of angular ballast that easily flipped when you walked on it, and the railroad ties were installed at an uncomfortable 50 cm-spacing that made us look like a row of galeots walking with chains in our ankles. I was dead by the time we got to the small town of Kultuk at the very southwest end of the lake, where we will stay for the night. We arrived around 5 pm, in time to take a quick shower and a well-deserved nap before we were called to the dining room for a delicious dinner of sausage and potatoes, and a whole collection of side dishes of raw Baikal fish with dill, sliced vegetables (we are reaping the best of the best in terms of cucumbers and tomatoes), and numerous bottles of beer. The beer is served in 1.5-liter plastic bottles of the type used for drinking water, recently filled from the barrel that our hostess keeps in the cellar.

Our hostess had also fired up the banya or sauna, which was the perfect treatment for my aching muscles. The rest of the group was planning on getting together later at night and carousing, but I made a bee line to my bed and fell promptly asleep. I am going to have to chose my battles, and avoid in as gracious a way as I can another of these death marches!

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