Sunday, August 25, 2019

Australia 2019 – Day 43 – On the way to Kakadu National Park


I am glamping, seated in an air-conditioned room with TV at the Kakadu Lodge, but still having to go to the outdoor facilities like any ol’ camper. Considering I am paying AUS$ 185 for the privilege, I now feel obliged to make the most of my available privileges.

Going back to the beginning of the day, after leaving Darwin I ran a good 100 km to a decommissioned dam named Fogg Dam. This dam was built in the 50’s, when the powers that be in the Northern Territories province (one of the six states that form Australia) were trying to jump start the local economy by creating a regional rice agricultural industry (I suspect they got the idea from the Sacramento River rice-growing region). The Adelaide River was going to play the role of the Sacramento River, and a couple of small holding dams were built on tributaries of the Adelaide River. But they didn’t have a large volume reservoir to feed the system (e.g., like the Shasta or Oroville dams), and the Adelaide is prone to going dry in drought periods, so the whole scheme went bust. Fogg Dam eventually filled up with sediment, and it is now a wading-birds preserve. Unfortunately the crocodiles soon moved in, so bird-watchers have been warned not to walk along the dam. I am not a bird-watcher, so I took a happy stroll along the dam, admiring the birds and looking for crocs. Lots of the first type, none of the latter type.

Another 65 km brought me to the Corroboree Billabong, for the pleasure of taking an air-boat ride (you know the type from The Everglades in Florida, with a giant fan propeller in the back). As I mentioned before, a billabong is a slough (pronounced sloo) formed in particularly flat flood plains. When the Adelaide River floods, the water spreads over thousands of square kilometers, and fish and crocs move freely from the coast inland. As the flood waters recede, many of these visitors get stranded in billabongs, which hold water during the long dry season; the longer the dry season, the less water is available, so the crocs, fishes, and birds get concentrated in a smaller and smaller slough.

There are two types of crocs: The smaller and more elegant fresh water crocs are relatively shy and don’t pose much of a threat, except to birds. The bigger and much meaner saltwater crocs, or “salties” are the ones everyone keeps warning you about. They are big, they are fast, and they are not afraid to go after wild pigs or people. They can see in color, so they are particularly attracted to bright orange floating vests. We saw both types in our ride, and I can vouch for the fact that salties trigger our primordial fears. Our guide told us that she and her sons collect croc eggs in the off season, to sell them to croc farms where they hatch and raise them for their skin and meat. Each female croc can lay 50 to 80 eggs in a nest that she keeps at just the right temperature by adding rotting leaves for heat, or by wetting the mound to cool it down. Depending on demand, a viable croc egg can go for AUS$ 25 to 45, por a total payback of AUS$ 1,500 to 3,000. I am not sure I would like to gamble a foot at those odds!

We also saw quite a few big birds. We saw sea eagles with white heads, a dark-colored crane with an enormous wing-span, and any number of egrets and herons. An interesting factoid is that all these birds mate for life, and that if you see one, then his or her mate is probably within sighting distance. Our Aussie guide claimed that sea eagles are bigger than bald eagles, probably because she has never seen a bald eagle close distance!

Another 100 km brought me to the doors of the Kakadu National Park, which boasts being the largest national park of Australia. I am a bit under-impressed, no doubt because after another 70 km I was still crossing a savanna of little eucalyptus trees and dwarf palms (that is what you get with the big flooding). One amazing thing were the termite mounds, which form clusters of mud and sand ghosts, a good 4 m tall. Another feature worth mentioning are the burn areas you see everywhere; apparently the aboriginal tribes have used fire at the very start of the dry season as a way of keeping the low forest healthy. Setting the fires while the grasses and weeds are not completely dry allows them to burn “cooler”, so the fire cannot damage the trees, which simply shed their outside slightly burnt skin at the start of the next rainy season. Maybe we could learn something useful from the Traditional Custodians of the land for our own fire-management efforts in California. 

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