Monday, June 3, 2024

France 2024 – Days 7 and 8 – Bergerac

I have now reached my long-term destination in France, the village of Bergerac in the valley of the Dordogne river (hereafter referred to as La Dordogne), and I think I may go into an irregular schedule in writing this blog because I intend to burrow myself into French life, which may not be of great interest to friends and family.

Anyway, I managed to oversleep and in panic gathered all my things and figuratively ran to the train station in Triel, only to find out that I was much earlier than I had intended. I was thus able to take the early commuter train, and arrived in Gare Montparnasse a good hour before the departure time of my TGV train (TGV – train de grand vitesse or bullet train) to Bordeaux … Swissh … in less than two hours I was in Bordeaux (the land of wine and honey), and an hour later a regular “slow” train delivered me at the train station in Bergerac, after traversing a green landscape of vineyards, wheat, fruit trees, and of course placid views of La Dordogne.

I quickly found my way to my new lodgings, a very modern studio open to the sunny inside court of what from the outside looks like a stern building. My landlady came to meet me here to welcome me to the town, and to show me the many brand new appliances at my disposal. It is a tiny house in the best and most modern form, but –there had to be a but—it is a bit overcrowded with cushions and baskets, so I have had to be very imaginative on how to stack said cushions out of the way.

Fist thing I had to do was to go shopping for the bare necessities of life. “Bare necessities” is a euphemism because I seem to have an endless list of what I need, and only two hands to carry them from the supermarket that is four blocks away. I did manage to buy a baguette, a bottle of wine, rice, veggies, and filets of duck, so I had myself a proper mediterranean dinér to celebrate my first afternoon in Bergerac.

The following morning I went exploring and found out that there is a Saturday marché in the streets of the old town, where everyone was shopping for fresh vegetables, fois gras (pretty pricey), cheese, honey, charcuterie, and the legendary black truffles (even pricier, with a truffle putting you back a 100 euros). I am not sure I will become a regular costumer, but I absolutely loved the ambiance and people watching.

I also found that the town was having the first of its summer festivals (France is famous for their village festivals, so it seems I arrived in the nick of time), in the form of two days of theater sprinkled through different venues throughout the town. Since I am intent on becoming a Bergeracoise I promptly bought my 20 euro bracelet that will let me into any of the events, and in the course of the day attended two performances. The first one I will have to discuss with DJ for use at his school, because it is based on running through a 5 minute “issue” (a guy hitting on a gal at the pub when she was clearly not interested), and then stopping to ask the audience where did they see the issue developing, and how could it be mitigated. People chimed in and after discussion were invited to come and take the place of the actress to “implement” their mitigation. The guy actor was pretty good and adapted his performance to the new conditions on the fly, and a new round of comment and suggestions followed. I think this might be a good way to handle conflict with teenagers.

The second performance was based on the life of Edmond Rostand (the author of Cyrano de Bergerac) and his wife Rosamond, who was also a writer. A more intense script, and at times I had a hard time understanding Edmond, but both actors did a great job representing the ups and downs of their relation as Edmond is simultaneously (?) working on Cyrano and Chantecler and goes from elation to depression, while Rosamond goes from elated to bitterly disappointed, until eventually Cyrano becomes a rousing success (but with the twist that Edmond became infatuated with Sarah Bernard, who I believe played the role of Roxanne in the early representations of the play). It was a great performance, and I am glad to report that I got a good 70% of what was being said.

Question: What was the full name of Cyrano?

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