Sunday, September 30, 2018

Siberia 2018 - Day 9. Hiking in the Sajan Mountains


It rained all night, which delayed our departure. Today everyone can do what he or she wants, but we all decided that it was the perfect day to take a walk up the mountains. One very ambitious group is going to try for the top, a climb of perhaps 1,200 m gain in elevation. Another group, formed by Christine, Raymond and me, decided to take it a little bit easier, and instead walked up the canyon to the waterfall. The hikers had a good time, but the path was steep and the clouds were too low, so eventually they made it to the tree line and called it good.

We joined a healthy crowd of locals going up the stream. The first 100 m of the path were lined by a gauntlet of merchants, all pretty much offering the same merchandise. Prominent among the things being sold were woolen clothes made in Mongolia. There were warm-looking hats, sweaters, vests, belly warmers, underpants, socks, and gloves. I couldn’t resist and bought myself two pairs of woolen socks, to replace the ones I have with holes in them. Christine bought a set of vodka shot glasses with every imaginable symbol representing Lake Baikal in them.

Another popular item for sale were empty plastic bottles, ranging in size from quart to gallon sizes. This is Siberia, so of course there is a miraculous spring somewhere in the park, and of course folks have to collect and drink the water. There was a long line to collect the water, which flowed through the bronze statue of a small Mongol child; the forest around it was beautifully adorned with brightly colored ribbons. I didn’t try the water, but I could see it had a yellowish tinge to it, and I was told it had a distinctive iron taste.

The walk up to the waterfall was just about perfect for me. I have been suffering a bit from sciatica, and my knees have not fully recovered from Mount Roraima, so I was glad to take on a modest challenge. The waterfall itself was cute but not super impressive. It is really a narrow, twisting part of the gorge where the water is forced to rush through, creating an effect akin to a “twisted waterfall”. Some fools were trying to clamber up the steep sides to get a better look, so clearly lack of common sense is not limited to the visitors of Bridal Veil in Yosemite.

On the way back we stopped at a bar that specializes in beer. There were four coolers on the left displaying 20 different kinds of bottled beer, but the real attraction was a wall with draft dispensers for yet another 20 types of beer stored in barrels. Each dispenser had a clear plastic bottle attached to it, indicating that the standard measure is one liter. We upset the system a bit by asking for three glasses (1.5 liters in total), but made up for it by purchasing 3 additional liters to go.

Today we treated ourselves to a banya or sauna. I think I have already said that this is a very popular way to bathe here in Siberia, although the average citizen might indulge only once every couple of weeks. We are visitors, so our record so far is two times per week. I hope we keep this frequency up, because it is really a great relief to sore muscles.

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