Today we explored Seligenstadt, a very pretty medieval town on the south bank of the Main River. The place has an interesting history. It seems that one of the emperor's advisers, a certain Einhard, was thinking on retirement when two of his representatives in Rome discovered the tomb of Martyrs Marcellinus and Petrus, who in the 4th century refused the order of emperor Dioclesianus to recant on their Catholic faith and were put to death. The remains of the two martyrs became the key to Einhard's retirement plan: In 827, he had the bones spirited out of Rome and brought to Germany, where he had built a basilica to host them. The presence of the relicts attracted many pilgrims and the corresponding good income.
Unfortunately, through different signs the martyrs indicated that they didn't feel comfortable in this place, and a year later their remains were moved to a place where the main Roman way crossed the river Main (a much better site to ensure a constant flow of pilgrims), and there Einhard built a second basilica that soon gained a reputation for the many miracles performed by the patron saints. Him and his wife were eventually buried there. A town grew around the basilica, Selingen, and by 1675 it was a regular and prosperous medieval city. In 1730 the basilica became part of the local diocese, and over the following 100 years was expanded into the Benedictine convent of Selingstadt. The convent has beautifully tended gardens and is a favorite place for families to walk around and buy some of the local ice cream.
Later in the afternoon our good friend Raymond came to the house as part of the group that was to get together to go to the theater in the early evening. Raymond and Christine are traveling buddies, and I have also had a chance to travel with him to Lake Baikal, Georgia, and the Camino de Santiago. He is about my age but stays very fit and is always a good conversationalist. The first part of the afternoon program was to go across the river Main and go to the site of an old basalt quarry, Dietesheimer, where the quarry pits have flooded to form a cluster of small lakes that has been converted into a park where people enjoy walking or, like we did, having dinner at one of the small restaurants that are always found in recreation areas.
From there we headed toward Hanau, a city that happens to be the birthplace of the Brothers Grimm, well known for the folktales they collected as part of their work as linguists. All around the city are small bronze sculptures that celebrate Snow White, Cinderella, Little Red Riding Hood, and the many other famous stories we all listened to as kids. Hanau also has a castle, Phillipsrhue, with vast gardens that are now one of the big green areas of the city. In this green area an open-air theater has been built, and every summer there is a series of theater pieces that celebrate the folktales tradition of the city. Tonight it is one of Hans Christian Andersen stories that is being represented, The Emperor's New Clothes.
The other members of our group were our friend Shousha (another traveling friend from Lake Baikal and Georgia) and her partner Mathias. Shousha is a biologist, and has recently completed her Habilitation (a type of high-level PhD) and with that secured a teaching position at the University of Ulm, where she is conducting research on medication to reduce the effects of arthritis. I believe Mathias is in the same field, but I am not sure.
The representation of the folk tale was very good, and I got
most of it (partly because I know how the story goes and partly because actors
and actresses speak very loud and clearly). Some pieces of the dialog bring the
story to date, like the emperor thinking he could put a tariff on the air we
breathe, a clear reference to the crazy and irrational behavior of a certain
world leader. I was very glad for the chance to see the play and seeing old
friends again.
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