Saturday, December 23, 2017

Day 5 – Norway 2017. Bergen a Tromsø

I was very disappointed when I checked the time of departure of the first leg of my flight Bergen-Oslo-Tromsø. I was under the impression that it was at mid afternoon, but no, the flight departed at 13:30 pm, which meant I had to leave Bergen at 11:30 am at the latest. This completely screwed up my plans for museum visits, since all museums open at 11:00 am. Instead I used the morning to meander through the university grounds, with the campus smoothly merging with the town in a very European style. It was 8 am when I was there, so I got a chance to see many students walking briskly to their respective schools, muffled against the chill of the morning.

By 11 am I was back at my hotel to pick up my backpack, and 45 minutes later the tram brought me to the airport. Norwegians are not as uptight regarding flight security as we are, and although you go through a full x-ray screening nobody peers closely at your passport picture as if trying to decide if it is you or a fake of you who want to board the plane. Finished with all formalities I still had an hour to wait, so I took a nice nap.

Speaking about naps, I have been going to bed at 8 pm, and have been waking at 6:30 am, which for me is a lot of sleep. Yet, because of my congested nose and sinuses (plus the always present sleep apnea) I have been sleeping poorly, with lost of bizarre dreams, so I am not fully rested. This means that as soon as I sit down for a moment I fall immediately asleep! I have now learned to set an alarm in my cell phone, so I will not risk missing a flight, and having done so I through myself gleefully into nap mode. Needless to say I slept through the 50 minute flight from Bergen to Oslo, and during the 4 hour flight from Oslo to Tromsø.

I don’t think I have mentioned that Tromsø is way north along the coast of Norway, just north of the Arctic Circle. I have come this far to visit with my niece Ceci, her husband Greg, and their little boy Evan. They are here because Ceci got a Fulbright Fellowship to come do research at the Polar Research Institute here in Tromsø, and I am here because they are here and someone had to come visit them.

As soon as I arrived I walked out into Arctic conditions to wait at the curb, and two minutes later the whole family drove by and picked me up. They have the use of the car of one of their friends this week, for which I am very glad.

Once we got to their comfortable house we shed all the winter boots and heavy coats, and there were embraces and happy hugs all around. Evan will be 2 years old next week, so he is a small bundle of energy that happily climbs over the furniture and shoots “goles” with remarkable precision with his soccer ball.


We had a yummy dinner of salad and pasta with pølsen, and then caught up on family news over a steaming mug of coffee. Afterward Evan had to take his bad and go to sleep, and I took the opportunity to go out for a walk in search of the northern lights. And I got to see them! (or at least I think I did). Unfortunately everyone has their outdoor lights blazing, and the nearby stadium keeps its big lights on for the best part of the night, but after climbing the hill that is behind the house I got to a dark spot, and after staring intently at a patch of black sky I could see ghostly bands of light forming shreds across the sky. At first I thought I was just looking at thin clouds, but after staring at it for a while the shreds of light coalesced into bands, and the bands starting undulating, just to suddenly disappear. I have three more days to complete my observations, but the start was really auspicious. 

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