Thursday, July 4, 2024

France 2024 – Day 29 – Further explorations in Périgord

Ugh, the day is not looking good. Overcast and with light rain, but that is not going to hinder a committed duo of explorers so, after a slow start (I had to go check out the market, where I bought two small lumps of black gold – les truffes!), off we went in our cute Cinquecento in the direction of Les Eyzies. We were almost there when we saw the sign to the Grotto de Rouffignac and quickly changed directions.  Got there at 11h30, just in time for the midday pause that you see everywhere in rural France. Rats! They opened again at 14h00, so while we pondered our next move inside the car I let my gaze wander on the cliff facing us and saw, oh wonder of wonders, a massive amount of chert nodules protruding from the rock. But this time the nodules, while still irregular and cutting through the fabric of the grainstone limestones, formed stratiform concentrations that paralleled the flat-lying limestone beds. Suddenly my theory of odd concretions forming here and there crashed to the ground. How had such a massive amount of silica been introduced in a sequence whose chemistry was dominated by calcium carbonate? Going back to the Bahamas and Jamaica, the only suspects I can come up with are clays dispersed through the limestone which, upon weathering, mobilized their silica and cation contents to permeate through the limestones. Could the stratiform concentrations be paleo-levels of the water table? I will have much more to tell you about Rouffignac, which is another jewel of parietal art, but will again wait for a couple of days after I come back with Ronnie because I am sure he will be fascinated by this long cave.

After about ten kilometers driving through the lovely French countryside we passed a duck farm, where thousands of white ducks were enjoying the drizzle and feasting on the young shoots of growing grass. It was a fois gras operation, where these lucky ducks get to eat and eat and eat, so even-luckier gourmets get to enjoy eating their very enlarged livers as the more sustainable version of pathé de fois gras (one can still find fois gras of goose around the Périgord, but it is very expensive and frowned upon by animal welfare activists). We also get to enjoy all that delicious duck meat at very reasonable prices.

Once we got to Les Eyzies we found out that one of the exhibitions was closed because it was Saturday! Really? We also learnt that most museums are closed on Tuesdays, so I will have to take that into account next week, when Ronnie et al. will be visiting me. Fortunately for us, the main Museum of Prehistory was open, and we had a great time meandering through it. Géraldine is delightfully curious about this period of human history, so every display brought new ideas to her fertile mind.

Still raining, and we were beginning to get hungry. We had packed a lunch, but the prospect of eating it in the car was not very exciting. We thus went back to Rouffignac, ate our lunch under the cover of the cave portal, and afterward spent a delightful couple of hours admiring the natural beauty of the cave, the scratch marks and wallows of the cave bears, and more than a kilometer into the ground the fabulous cave paintings I will talk about later. All along I kept seeing these “seams” of chert nodules, which must have made this place the epicenter of a lively silex trade.

Our next stop was the Abri Préhistorique de Laugerie Basse, a series of shelf shelters distributed over a very long cliff that oversees La Dordogne, which were occupied during the Magdalenian, about 15,000 years ago. Cro-Magnon people much preferred these abris to caves, because the latter were damp and had cave bears (!), whereas the former were sunny and afforded great views of the river, wildlife, and incoming folks. Géraldine and I discussed the likely dynamic of encountering other bands, and concluded that it must have been party time, with all sorts of opportunities to exchange news and innovative technologies, tell stories and dance, cook together and maybe find mates for the youngsters of the crowd. By the way, did you know that in those times reaching the age of 40 was apparently common? The only thing about living under an abris was that from time to time the overhang would collapse and crush whoever was there at the time (and create a permanent record of occupation that anthropologists and archaeologists absolutely love).

From there we went to Sarlat, which is a beautiful medieval city (although a bit too touristy), where Géraldine treated us to a most delicious dinner that included, of course, a first entrée of fois gras! The main dish for her were grilled medallions of duck filet, and I had a traditional cassoulet (a white bean stew with duck sausage and salt pork) that was the perfect warmer for what was turning out to be a very chilly day.

The drive back to Bergerac seemed slow, but that was because we were tired and had had a big meal. The one moment of excitement was when I spotted a sanglier (a big wild pig) trotting along the side of the road. It looked just like the sangliers that Obelix hunts with such gusto in the Asterix BD!

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