I am on the move again! Early morning train to Bordeaux, and from there a connection to Pauilliac (once again I was confronted with needing a bicycle reservation, which I had asked about at the station and was assured none was needed, but this time the conductor was nice and walked me through the process of getting one online). On Google Maps it looked like Pauilliac and Saint Estephe were a grand metropolis but no, they are tiny specks in the grand setting of the Pays de Médoc, the name given to the left side (looking down river) of the grand estuary of La Gironde, formed by the confluence of La Dordeogne and La Garonne rivers. Not that my California students and friends would care about it, but this estuary is as large as the estuary of the Sacramento and San Joaquin rivers, so it was my sacred duty to come and see it. Alas, it was a disappointment, about as exciting as biking along Antioch and seeing an industrialized shoreline.
Underimpressed I took to the hills, which was hard on my flat-land conception of what biking the shoreline of the estuary would be, but soon I was immersed on the most beautiful wine country you could imagine. Not only were there grapevines extending as far as the eye could see, but I could actually see the difference in terroir, from sandy calcareous soils to pebbly sandy soils, that makes such a big difference on the quality of the grapes. Also, I rubbed shoulders with famous names such as Mouton, Rothschild, or Lafitte, which would make an enologist's heart flutter (mind you, not that I could ever afford any of these wines). This wine producing region is called Médoc, and to my distress is divided into the Haut Médoc (High Médoc, with huge hills -- OK, not that huge but larhe enough for me), where terroir is a big deal, and the lowlands, where the estuary of La Gironde provides a more constant maritime climate. As a bicyclist I am a big fan of the lowlands, but in my meanderings I huffed my way up many a hill.
I wanted to look at the estuary, but this is not easy because the banks are covered with phreatophytes and are extremely muddy, but persistence has a reward and I eventually discovered a "path" that followed the shoreline. Clearly it was only used occasionally by fishermen, so I had to bike through some pretty gnarly muddy stretches, but I fulfilled my dream of visiting the estuary of La Gironde (and I will excuse you all of thinking that it was just anther muddy bay).
Back at home in Paulliac I was pretty hot and bothered, but my lodgings are a beautiful beach house I have all for myself! I even have a swimming pool but, rats, I took my swimming suit out of my travel backpack :(
The question is, what
will I do tomorrow?
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