Thursday, July 4, 2024

France 2024 – Days 34 (Bergerac) and 35 (Saint-Émilion)

We needed a quiet day back at home, which started with Ronnié catching up with his journaling. He practiced a couple of times drawing a woolly rhinoceros, and finally drew it in his journal, with nice colors to simulate his long hair. Picasso could not be prouder than I am with my prehistoric grandson!

The big event was going to the Regional Park of Pombonne, to have Ronnié be a free bird riding Opa’s bike, while the rest of us walked the trails. He had a great time at it, but it was a hot day, and at the end was glad to change into his swimsuit and dive into the lake. Dad followed suit and they both had a great time, while Fabeé and I had a cool Monaco (beer with grenadine and lemonade) at the cafeteria. It is a very civilized European tradition to have a place for adults to enjoy themselves while the kids play 😊

The visit of the Ashby Trio is coming to an end. They have had a great time, and to celebrate we went for a last stroll around the charming downtown of Bergerac, and found ourselves a nice terrace to enjoy a last serving of glace.

The following day, Friday, we had a slow start because backpacks had to be finalized and packed into our powerful Cinquecento. Our last adventure will be a visit to the wine-growing region of Saint-Émilion, as a sample of the viticulture of the southwest of France. The town was packed with American and British tourists, most of them (us?) trying to look knowledgeable and debonair looking at the many wineshops and their exorbitant prices. On one of the shops I saw an aroma-kit, with maybe 40 small vials that represented the different aromas a wine expert might use to describe a wine: pencil shavings, wet leather, fallen leaves, etc. I should get one like that.

DJ had his heart set on the tour of a chateaux and a wine-testing experience, so we found a suitable offer through Booking.com five minutes from Saint-Émilion and got there sharp on 2 pm. Our guide was a charming young man, with excellent command of English, and the comparatively small vineyard (100 hectares or about 220 acres) was stunningly beautiful. We learnt that all Saint-Emilion wines are blends, with about 70% Merlot and 15% Cabernet Franc in their makeup. The key trick, and why some wines are better than others, is the precise blend as designed by the enologist, who uses the wines produced from the grapes from different soils and slopes, as well as wines from the much smaller acreage devoted to Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, or Petit Verdot. DJ asked about Pinot Noir (Mon Dieu, not in this region of France!), or Pinot Grigio (Hmpf! One of those white wines that would never be produced in Saint-Émilion), but those conversations never got very far. The wine testing was fine, but of course we soon showed that we had uncultured palates, and the eyes of our gracious host just glazed over. Clearly we were not the type to buy a case of 50 euros a bottle 2016 grand crú, and we chose to leave while we were still friends.

The last leg of the trip brought us to Bordeaux, a big trafficky city that failed to attract us, but where I had to deliver the Ashby Trio to the airport for their return to Barcelona and from there back to California. We had a great visit together, and the memory of the good times supported me through the traffic jam and the hour-long ride back to Bergerac.

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