Wednesday, August 8, 2018

Latin America 2018 - Day 19. Boa Vista, Brazil


In his memoir, “There and Back Again”, Bilbo Baginns told of his trip to the misty mountain. In the next few days I will tell you of my own trip to the misty mountain of South America, Mount Roraima. Maybe not as adventurous as Bilbo’s trip, but a good yarn nonetheless. In my mind all starts and ends in Manaus, Brazil, where I spent the night.

I overslept, until 7 am, so by the time I took my brisk 1-km walk to the airport to look for an ATM it was already hot and muggy. Once I got there the first ATM I tried turned me down. %$#@ B of A. But I tried again and this time was able to coax 600 reales (about US$ 150), which should be just about enough to cover all my costs while I am in Brazil.

I did have a moment of panic because I did not see my flight in the departure screens. Had it been cancelled? I had to go back to the hotel (it was getting pretty toasty by then), to check for updates to my itinerary, but there were none. So I picked up my backpack, and using my new found wealth took a cab to the airport, where my flight was still unlisted but still happened at the expected time. Just a little test of my mettle as world traveler.

Thanks to my contact in Santa Elena, Venezuela, I had made arrangements with a Brazilian driver, Macuxi, to pick me up at 1 pm at the exit of the airport and take me all the way to Santa Elena. I think he is a kind of Uber, so he had said he could not wait for me at the airport proper, so I walked about on kilometer on the access street to the airport until I found a traffic circle and stood there in plain view from about 12:45 to 1:30 pm. No Macuxi. Rats!

What to do? I walked back to the airport and took a cab with the idea of going to the bus station, but the friendly cabby informed me that there were colectivos who regularly did the run to the border with Venezuela. I jumped at the opportunity and before 3 pm was happily crammed in the far back of a small SUV heading for the border town of Pacaraima. I did notice that despite the heavy vegetation there were outcrops of intrusive rocks along the way.

Once I got to Pacaraima (also known as La Línea) I had to figure out how to cover the remaining 20 km to Santa Elena, and for that I was going to need money. When a kid came by offering to change Brazilian Reales for Venezuelan Bolívares I jumped at the opportunity and asked him to change me 100 Reales (about US$ 25). Imagine my shock when he started shoving thick wads of money unto my hands, to the tune of 15,500,000 Bolívares. I was so unsettled by the sheer amount of bills that I forgot I had left my Galapagos hat in the colectivo. Sadness of the heart, for I was very fond of that hat.

Now that I had a backpack full of cash, the tales of people being murdered for a pittance made me a bit uneasy (but remember, we are just talking of US$ 25, even if in bills they were a stack that could compete with a Ken Follet recent novel). I was thus very happy to attach myself to a young man who offered to show me where to take the colectivo to Santa Elena, which went up from 300,000 to 400,000 Bolívares this week.

I had made arrangements with my future guide, Luis Vago, to meet at the “Arepería de la Frontera” at 6 pm, and at about 5:45 pm the colectivo dropped me off at that very place. Of course Luis didn’t know me, but I had mentioned white hair and beard, so in a few minutes I heard my name called and turned around to see a smiling young man in his mid-twenties. Like in the movies he picked up my backpack and walked me to his (our?) expeditionary vehicle, and old Toyota Land Cruiser jeep, which looked rugged enough for the muddy roads I kept seeing everywhere, but also looked old enough to have been manufactured before Luis was a twinkle in his parents eyes. By now dusk was on its way, I was hungry and tired, and was ready to eat and crash. “Listen Horacio”, Luis said in his appealing Venezuelan accent, “I had a falling apart with my woman Kenya, and am now staying at the farm. I was planning to put you up at my house, but that is no longer an option. But don’t worry, I have a place for you at the Eco Camp”. OK, says he, not to worry, but I smell a rat. So we rattle through town in the old Toyota, with Luis grinding the gears at every change (“The transmission is misaligned, but I am fixing this next week”) heading for the outskirts of town, just as a good equatorial evening rain gets started. Seems like power is out in the town, which gives it a very gloomy aspect.

Eventually we get to a peripheral community of Pemón Indians (this is Luis’ tribe), and he proudly parks at his parents’ house, which looks reasonably nice. Ah, but from here we need to walk a few hundred meters to the Eco Camp, which happens to be on a hill and far enough to have to services such as power or running water. We trudge through very slippery mud all the way there, and we get to the two-room structure that is his current abode. It is not too bad, and I spy a thin cot which I hope will become mine for the night, but there are no windows nor doors, and the gaping holes are covered by plastic for the windows and two sheets of plywood for the doors. Luis beams with pride at his creation, and proudly shows me his rain collection system (“This is where you can take a ‘shower’ and get drinking water”) and the latrine (“It is a dry Vietnamese system”, he boasts). “We will leave our boots here, just so we don’t track mud instead the house.” Ha, good luck; we are in the middle of a sea of mud.

I took the opportunity to pay my bill for his future services (US$ 750), and after that had the unhappy idea of going to grab something to eat. “Ok, let’s go back to town in the jeep.” Hmm … perhaps going out was not such a great idea, but the die had been cast and I was going to regret this decision in the days to come, for no soon had I taken ten steps in the slick mud that my left foot slipped under me. Normally I would have fallen flat on my butt, but a combination of trying to keep “clean” and saving face made me try to keep my balance, and in the process I sprained my left ankle something awful. For a moment there the pain was so intense that I thought I had broken my ankle. “Are you OK?”, asked my gracious host. Of course I was not OK (why do people always ask this silly question?), but I was not going to show weakness this early on the game, and I smiled dismissively and assured him I would be just fine.

The night ended in pizza and a couple of beers, which dented my fortune by a mere 3 million Bolívares (US$ 5). I asked Luis if everything was ready, and he assured me that everything was under control. “Tomorrow we need to go buy a few things at La Línea and then we will be ready to go.” We got back at the Eco Camp and I settled down under my mosquito netting with a throbbing ankle, left to ponder what tomorrow will bring.

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