Wednesday, August 8, 2018

Latin America 2018 - Day 3. Guatemala


Today we are having another one-day motorcycle adventure. Our plan is to cross de Cerro de La Cruz to get to San Lorenzo, and from there go north toward the valley of the Motagua river, where we will visit the archaeologic site of Mixco Viejo. The Motagua River follows an enormous left-lateral transform zone that separates the North American tectonic plate to the north from the Caribbean tectonic plate to the south. From the standpoint of the motorcyclist, this means we are going to an area where tectonic activity has created many young, steep mountains separated by deep chasms. Roads are typically developed along the ridgelines, so to go from point A to point B you often have to take a detour to the crown of the ridge, and from there go down along a different ridgeline to your destination (imagine it as going up and down the legs of a spider).  It also means that if you get in the wrong ridge you may end a long distance far away from your intended destination, as you will see later in this narrative.

We departed at about 8:30 am, and within half an hour I encountered by first challenge. We were going up a very steep slope in the Cerro de la Cruz, when I stalled (I was trying to go up in 2nd gear where I should have been in 1st gear) and fell. It was a slow-motion fall, so I was unharmed, but the impact broke the clutch lever. Rats! Tom looked at it and decided we needed to go back, and promptly rode the bike back with no clutch!

My bike is an Italika 200 cc dirt bike, and has seen its share of mishaps. Like many racing bikes it does not have a light, so it is not strictly street legal. However, we solved the problem of the lack of the front light by simply making the plan not to ride at night. Duh! Only a complete idiot would think riding at night in Guatemala is a good idea.

Having replaced the clutch we go again on our way, at around 9:30 am, and Tom decided that we were a little behind schedule and were better off using the highway. That worked pretty well, but after San Lucas we had to get on one of the legs of the spider and climb, climb, climb to the high point (San Juan, a town that has been taken over by furniture makers). My rear breaks were pretty soft, and the clutch lever not quite a perfect fit, so in San Juan Tom spied an Italika dealer and in half hour I had good breaks (thank God, because I was really going to need them). So down and down we go, and then up and up, and down and down to the next ridge until we reached the site of Mixco Viejo.

Mixco Viejo, or Chuwa Nima’ Ab’Aj in Quiche, is a mountain top complex, where the inhabitants razed the top of the hill flat (a little like Monte Alban in Oaxaca, Mexico), taking advantage of the soft substrate formed by a poorly welded ignimbrite. Then, and this baffles my powers of imagination, imported basalt blocks and schist slabs to build an exquisite complex of temples and ball courts. I have no idea where the metamorphic rocks came from (schist, gneiss, and marble), and at the beginning I thought they had been imported by the archaeologists who were reconstructing the site, but we inspected a couple of partially crumbling structures and found they also included the metamorphic rocks. It is clear from its position at the top of the hill, dominating the Motagua River, that this site must have been a defensive position, or maybe a tollhouse for commerce along the river valley.

At this point we should have headed back, but a little hungry devil convinced us to keep going away from home, to look for a chicharroneria to have something to eat. This uniquely Guatemalan style of restaurant relies of the butchering of a large pig, and in cooking it as carnitas for three or four days. Unfortunately it was Monday, and the pork extravaganza is normally done Thursday to Sunday, so we wasted a couple of hours chasing after the day dream of a chicharroneria (plus I fell from the bike a second time, again due to a stall in a 45 degree slope, and Tom had to have a flat tire fixed at a local pinchazo or tire repair shop).

So we started on our way back an hour to late. Tom has been a fountain of training and good advice, and he would never dream on criticizing a friend and guest, but as the chief of the expedition he suggested I might want to go a bit faster. Off we went, but we took a couple of wrong ways that forced us to back track, and as we joined main roads were significantly slowed down by the colorful buses that transport people and goods between mountain towns. We got a bit of rain, but fortunately Tom had brought two large black plastic bags for us to wear as ponchos, and we pushed on (the rain was very thin and gentle, but the threat of a torrential storm was on the air). The black clouds also immersed the world in penumbra, so driving the motorcycle through it started getting a feel of unreality.

We were a good 60 kilometers of Antigua, just joining the highway, when darkness fell. But we were like wraiths, rushing through the country (Tom had to encourage me to ride at highway speeds), with Tom riding close behind me, illuminating the ground ahead with his light. I could barely distinguish the outlines of crazy people dashing across the freeway in the darkness, as I frantically beeped my horn to let them know a runaway train was coming. Kilometer after kilometer we went, part of that immersed in a thin fog that rapidly condensed on my glasses. Cars, trucks, and other motorcyclists emerged from the fog as ghost ships, as if we were together engaged on a ghostly race. But I was confident, knowing that Tom had my back, and as we entered Antigua I turned around to grin at him when, much to my dismay, I discovered no Tom. Crap! I turned around and there, right in front of me, he was taking the lead to navigate our way through the streets of Antigua. Tom kept looking behind, and I thought he was overdoing the mother hen act, but he later told me he couldn’t see me in the darkness, even though I was barely 10 m from him.

We made it home at last! Wet and cold as we were, we both rejoiced on yet another adventure coming to a happy conclusion. Were we surprised? Not really. This adventure has the true sign of authenticity from a Tom-Horacio venture! I regret to say that we will probably have a few more close shaves together as years go by. 😊


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