Wednesday, August 8, 2018

Latin America 2018 - Day 25. Mount Roraima, Venezuela


1 am. What is that noise? Rain! Heavy rain! Lots and lots of heavy rain!

3 am. Still raining cats and dogs.

6 am. Time to get up. It continues raining, our waterfall is back, and from the ledge we can see that puddles have turned into small lakes, and trickles have turned into steadily flowing streams. The good news is that my neck kink seems to have finally disappeared, so I have a little more of upper torso flexibility. The bad news is that we have ahead of us a steep, rocky descent, and that we will have to do it under heavy rain. I am very concerned about slipping and further hurting my left ankle, and have chosen boots over sandals to have additional support. I have an excellent pair of boots that I bought at Grocery Outlet for US$ 15; they are surplus of Desert Storm and are really tough. I am sure they will stand getting soaking wet. I also had the good sense to bring my river backpack, which is water tight. I am ready to tackle this mountain.

OK, here we go. The first stage was to descend to the base of the cliff, at La Pared, doing the lady Bug dosey-do in reverse. On the way we had to walk through waterfalls that had turned themselves into vertical rivers. Looking up the wall we had just descended, rising to disappear among the clouds, was bot sobering and exhilarating.

I started with 100% battery, and by the time we made La Pared I was down to 75%. Then started the tough segment, with very steep slopes and very slippery soils all the way to Base Camp. I had to turn my face toward the rocks, and descend in that way, carefully placing each step. It was then that I noticed that the slippery slopes were residual soils, and that the underlying rock was my faintly layered hypersthene gabbro. Since I had been favoring my left leg, my right leg answered back with a painfully strained upper leg muscle. By the time I reached Base Camp my battery was down to 40%.

In Base Camp we met all sorts of people. A Japanese team, loaded like donkeys and swaddled in their rain ponchos were starting on their way up. Four other teams had decided to wait the storm out in Base Camp, and would be attempting the climb tomorrow. One of the groups included three Venezuelan young women, who looked like they had come out of the shopping mall. I hope they have a good time.

The rest of the trip, down to Kamaiwakén camp, was pure hell for me. My ankles were hurting, my knees were aching, and my muscles seemed to be made of wood. I was quite literally caressing the rocks, attempting to reduce the stress of each step as much as possible. I did, however, noticed a thick sequence of basaltic scoria layers, resting horizontally. I could not see the relation between the gabbro and the scoria, but by the fact that the latter is not deformed or baked I am going to guess they accumulated on the weathered top of the gabbro. My grand interpretation was that in the Lower Proterozoic (2,500 to 2,000 million years ago) an intrusive complex was exposed by erosion, and was intensely weathered. At some point in the Middle Proterozoic (2,000 to 1,500 million years ago) basaltic eruptions laid tuffs on the erosional surface to form a lithologic unconformity. Deep weathering continued. Finally, in the Upper Proterozoic (1,500 to 600 million years ago) a prolonged period of erosion in faraway mountains fed sediment to rivers that transported fluvial sand all over the paleo-sabana to form the Roraima Formation. I must be delirious. How could all that happen so long ago, and be still undeformed and forming a table mountain of the dimensions of Roraima?

Finally I limped into Kamaiwakén camp, two hours after everybody else. “We need to cross the rivers; if we don’t do it now we will be stuck here overnight.” This to me sounded like what my Mom would say to us kids “This banana is going bad. You must eat it before I have to throw it away.” My batteries were at a low 2%, and all non-vital functions had already been turned off, so without a protest I followed my friends as Simón looked for the best place to cross. Antonio almost got covered by the rushing water, because he is not a very tall guy, and I got in it down to my chest. The only trick about crossing a flooding river is to make sure that one of your feet is firmly planted in a stable cobble while you move the other foot. The fact that a current is pushing against you with the force of a man is immaterial if your feet are firmly planted.

At the end we crossed both rivers, and five minutes later I collapsed inside a hastily built tent. Overall this has been one of the most exciting expeditions I have undertaken, but it is also one of the most exhausting. Next time I come up with another crazy idea, someone please whisper “Roraima” in my ear.  

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