Wednesday, August 8, 2018

Latin America 2018 - Day 23. Mount Roraima, Venezuela


I spent a bad night, partly because I was so tired, and partly because the kink in my neck continues to hurt, particularly when I try to turn from lying on one side or the other. Rain is falling pretty steadily.

Somehow I managed to crawl out of my tent (hard to do when you are stiff) and joined Simon in one of the upper ledges, where he had just started on breakfast. He has an ancient Primus kerosene stove, which he coaxes into providing heat for an early cup of coffee, which I enjoy as I watch them do his magic. Sitting in the cramped ledge he has placed everything within arm’s reach so he doesn’t need to get up. Basic cooking implements are an old Tupperware plastic box (the type you would pack sandwiches in for the whole family), a small plastic tray (of the type you get you Happy Meal served on), a fork and knife set, a small frying pan, a dented aluminum pot, and a dented aluminum jar for boiling water.

Today Simon is making bread, so he mixes flour, sugar, salt, and water in the Tupperware, and he vigorously knead it for several minutes while a few spoonful of oil heats in the small frying pan. Then he tears small pieces of the dough and flattens it on the serving tray, using his water bottle as a rolling pin. Once he has a nice flat piece the whole thing goes into the hot oil, to cook in the same way Navajo bread is cooked, flipping it with the fork. Repeat the process a dozen of times, and pretty soon you have a nice stack of bread cakes. Now the tray turns into a chopping board and he uses the small knife to chop onions, garlic, tomatoes, and peppers, which eventually find their way into the residual oil. Add eggs and salt and, ta da, breakfast is ready.

Luis, excellent guide that he is, offers to take me around under the steady rain to see some of the worthwhile sights of the mesa. Great! There are two philosophies on how to spend a day under the rain. Luis favors covering himself as best he can, in a futile attempt to stay dry (he has also commandeered my umbrella given that I am not planning to use it). I favor becoming one with the rain, and dress in a thin shirt, shorts, and sandals. Since there are all sorts of rivulets and ponds all around us I believe I made the best choice. As a useless factoid, Luis tells me that the average annual precipitation is 3,000 mm; that would be 120 inches per year!

The first thing I am looking for is my gabbro sill (I am afraid that yesterday I lost my focus, and as my Mom would so aptly put it I regarded every rock I stumbled upon with hatred). Alas, nowhere to be found. I am surrounded by sandstone and nothing else. I did mention the abundance of cross-bedding and ripple marks, so I conclude that this is a fluvial sequence. I did not do any previous research on Roraima, but a map Luis gave me states that the sandstones belong to the Proterozoic Roraima Formation (that means no fossils of any sort).

Wait, that is a perfect armor of an Ankylosaurus! Oh, no, it is just an interesting erosional feature on the sandstone. And there is a perfect turtle, and over there the head of a horse. Yes, it is that kind of landscape where a vivid imagination can see all sorts of fantastic shapes. No wonder it was chosen by Conan Doyle as the setting for his “Lost World”, where some intrepid explorers find a world inhabited by all sorts of cool dinosaurs.

On the fanciful vein, the water-soaked landscape looks to me like a Devonian landscape, where sparse ferns and odd-looking insectivorous plants struggle to survive on a rocky substrate. Ignoring for the moment the small non-endemic birds, this Devonian world is inhabited only by insects and a small black frog, again examples of life attempting to take hold of the opportunity to conquer an almost empty world.

A peculiar feature of the sandstones are concretions, that in some instances are filled by milky crystals of quartz about 3 cm in length. As the rocks erode, the crystals are liberated from their matrix, and accumulate like small stringers in the channels of the multiple rivulets. Eventually the rivulets join to form small streams. One of these streams has eroded some large potholes, and these potholes have become traps for the quartz crystals. Luis tells me that this place, called “The Jacuzzies”, is very popular among some “New Age” visitors, who like to bathe in them on the buff, under a full moon, to soak the energy being concentrated by the crystals. Odd.

All streams eventually reach the edge of the plateau to form the signature waterfalls of Roraima, but one of them in particular hides itself as a subterranean river before reaching the edge.

Eventually we went back to camp, only to find Simón and Antonio vegetating under the ledges, dry but in what seemed to me to be a state of suspended animation. Them, including Luis, are Pemón Indians, and apparently feel no need to go get wet walking through a landscape that is all too familiar to them. I forgave them because they received us with a shot of Jiri Jara (the local firewater) mixed with lime juice and lots of sugar, which really jolted our metabolism out of deep freeze.

After lunch we spent a cold, damp, and long afternoon. I read for a while inside my tent, but otherwise there was not much to do. I consoled myself by thinking that today would have been the day of ascent, and that instead of being inside my warm sleeping bag I could be bitching and moaning crawling my way up the steep slopes. Yes, I think I will take a lazy afternoon for a change. 

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