Wednesday, August 14, 2019

Australia 2019 – Day 21 – Coral Sea Dreaming at sea

I forgot to mention that yesterday afternoon I stopped by a great Asian Market, with all the fancy stuff that one could expect in Shanghai or Taipei. I was considering getting a nice fish for dinner, when I spotted a package of crocodile meat. Oh, the allure of something exotic. I picked one package after the other trying to make my mind up. But all of them had big ribbons of fat, and that got me wondering that crocs eat all sorts of rotten fish and meat. At the end I didn’t buy it and settled for a local restaurant, where I had a Mexican pizza (with jalapeňos, red bell peppers, and spicy salami) and a nice cold beer.

Today at 7:30 am I boarded the sailboat Coral Sea Dreaming, together with eleven other adventurers, for a snorkeling trip to the outer fringe of the Great Barrier Reef. I am so excited!

We started by motoring out for maybe an hour, and just as we were getting ready to leave the quiet water of the bay the crew set up the sails and Captain Jan warned us that the sea might get a bit rough. OMG, he was not kidding. We were going at an angle to a swell of maybe 4 m in height, so sometimes the boat would pitch and rise, and other times she would roll left and right, and finally she would do both at the same time. Rock and roll!

Four hours later the wind had picked up to maybe 30 knots, just as we were reaching the outer fringe of the Milln Reef, due east of Cairns (the spot named The Whale). The Great Barrier Reef is not one solid reef platform, but is formed by discrete reef mounds separated by deep sea corridors, and we were now in the quiet zone behind Milln Reef. I did suffer stuffing myself inside a number 6 wet suit (which I was trying to put on inside out). It didn’t happen, and I had just accepted the fact that a gordito like me was not meant to be inside a tight rubber suit when Alba, our hostess/cook/scuba instructor, came up with a size 8 that actually worked for me.

The reef was fantastic! It was overcast above us, so the initial impression was a dull brownish green, but as one got closer the kaleidoscope of colors burst forth. How can one describe the variety of fish patterns and colors? Neon blue jumps out of every corner of the reef, where a great variety of fish wearing pajamas lazily get out of the way. Parrot fish scratch at the reef, while small green fish try to hide by backing out into the crevices of a big branch coral. I saw a Marvin fish, a school of Scarface fish, and even a Dory fish! The corals themselves have a bewildering variety, ranging from massive and rounded “brain” corals to delicate fan corals, and from wavy ruffles where the mouths of the tiny polyps shimmer as the current moves over them to bundles of “sticks” (staghorn corals) that for whatever reason from time to time collapse and spread their “sticks” all over the reef sandy floor. Perhaps it is storm damage?

After a great swim we were treated to a delicious lunch, and afterward got ready for a second swim. That is when weak stomachs started showing themselves. People started noticing that they were cold, they were tired, and their stomach was acting up. So of 12 original explorers only three of us went back in the drink. My efforts were rewarded by sights of two enormous groupers (maybe 1 m long and half a meter tall) and another rainbow of colorful fish. So far no sharks, whales, or marine turtles.

Taco Thursday for dinner!  

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