Wednesday, August 8, 2018

Latin America 2018 - Day 20. Santa Elena, Venezuela


My left ankle is twice as thick as the right one, but otherwise I am chomping at the bit for a start. Coffee at 8 and by 9 am we set in search for the driver and vehicle that will take us and all our stuff to the starting point. Wait, where is all the stuff? Even though we are a small expeditionary force we are still going to need tents, sleeping bags, a kitchen, and food for four people for 6 days. Ah, it all becomes clear now. The hardware might be ready, but without my infusion of cash Luis had no other choice but to wait until the last minute to make the necessary purchases.

He had made arrangements with his subcontractors, however, and one of them was our driver. But he was flakey and didn’t show up as expected, so we had to go to his house and distract him from his marital duties. Half an hour later he came out, with the family on tow, and we all piled in a bigger version of the Toyota Land Cruiser (just in case I forget to mention it later, let me point out that Cubans are not the only ones who manage to keep vehicles running on shoestrings and bubble gum), heading for La Línea. We had to make a stop along the way to buy gasoline in a farm, but we only got 12 liters (more about this later). Once at La Línea, Luis pulled out a shopping list the length of my arm,  ripped it in three to share with his dad and a friend, and all went out intent on accomplishing their individual missions as quickly as possible. In the meantime I loafed around and bought a bottle of mosquito repellent and a small pocket knife.

I should point out that the border follows a low ridge of hills called the Pacaraima Ridge, probably named after the town, which like Ciudad Juarez I suspect has lived from border commerce ever since Venezuela and Brazil became nations. This ridge is also the natural boundary of the fertile hills and valleys of Brazil, and the deceivingly green but unfertile Gran Sabana of southern Venezuela. I will tell you about the Gran Sabana in just a moment.

Without further a do we went back to Santa Elena, dumped the missus and kids in the center of town, and went back to the Eco Camp to load our gear and get started.

But first we had to deal with the problem of gasoline. It turns out that gasoline is dirt cheap in Venezuela (about the only thing everybody can afford), which attracts Brazilian drivers, and their Reales. To profit from this market, clever Venezuelans are always on the look for the gasoline tanker truck, with hundreds of vehicles parked on all streets near the gas station, and as soon as the tanker truck arrives they swarm to the pumps with canisters of all sizes and promptly buy all the gasoline. The normal person, say a Brazilian from Pacaraima or a guide like Luis, do not have time to wait for the arrival of the next tanker truck, so instead they comb the neighborhood looking for someone who might be willing to sell them gasoline (at exorbitant prices). I would have thought our driving subcontractor could have taken care of this the day before. I don’t trust this guy.

We finally got on our way, for the 100 kilometer ride across the Gran Sabana to our trailhead. The sabana looks like the Serengeti Plain, minus the giraffes and lions. In fact, minus animals of any type. It is a region of gentle hills underlain by a thick residual clay soil where most plants don’t grow very well. The one exception being a tough grass that forms big clumps and is reported to cause the soil to be acid. I was surprised at the lack of cattle (we saw exactly one herd), goats (again one herd), sheep, horses, and particularly donkeys. Here folks hoof it under heavy burdens, whereas in the rest of the world a farmer happily walks behind his heavily-loaded donkey. If I were here I would invest in a few heads of the above-mentioned animals and give it a go.

After 50 km we left the paved road, and undertook another 50 km traverse along the most miserable dirt road I have ever seen. As I have already mentioned, there are thick residual soils, lateritic in some cases, all over the place. Some landforms you can recognize as being a small mesa underlain by sedimentary rocks, but as the road cuts through them all you see is the thick, ochre, plastic clay. The ruts in these soils reach gigantic proportions, and the preferred way to avoid such badly eroded portions of the road is to open a new track in the sabana. Thank God it was not raining. I cannot imagine what this would look like under heavy rain.

Eventually we made it to the Pemón indian-community of Paraitepuy, which will be the starting point of our adventure. Luis reminded the driver to come pick us up on July 3, whose whole “talk-to-the-hand” demeanor worried me a bit. I thought the guy was a flake, so I too tried to impress on him the importance of pickup on July 3 if I were to make my connection on the way back home. “Yeah, yeah, I will be here.”   

We had an early dinner, and stayed chatting until the full moon came up over the sabana. I took the serenely illuminated landscape as a good omen.

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